Tuesday, August 28, 2007

Connecticut

Deep River, CT
July 22-24, 2007

We are unable to make it to the mouth of the Connecticut River in one day from NYC, so, like last year, we elected to stop at Cold Springs Harbor for the night of July 21. Despite being a weekend crowded with day boaters we were able to find a good spot to drop the anchor early in the day. Then, we just had to wait out the rest of the afternoon and endure the powerboat noise and wakes from passing boats. This harbor is so scenic with high, thickly treed hills all around and architecturally distinct estate homes with beautiful grounds.

The next day we reached the CT River around 1700. Since it was a beautiful day for boating, the river was jammed with boats of all sorts. We are so amazed how generally rude the power boat operators of this area are to all other boaters: failure to yield right-of-way, ignore slow and no wake zones, no overtaking and passing skills, careless driving, and poor radio use. These are serious issues in this area where the waterway is narrow and confined; two weeks ago 3 people in a sailboat were knocked overboard when hit by a powerboat, and 1 of them was killed. We have to move cautiously up the river to where we hope to anchor and are thankful that the weekend is coming to an end, and the waterway will be calmer during the week.

CT River Take Off
CT River Take Off

We have decided to travel upriver about 10 miles and drop the anchor for a few nights. The trip is very scenic; passing tidal marsh lands, the historic town of Essex, with hills of varying elevations bordering the river all make for lots to see.

Our anchorage ends up across the river from Gillette Castle State Park. We visited the park last year as part of a land adventure and had the opportunity to tour Gillette's home (the castle). At the time we remarked about the wonderful view of the river valley and surrounding Seven Sisters hills from the castle, and now we see that the view looking up from the river is just as beautiful. There are big boulders and interesting rock formations rising up from the river's edge. Many species of hardwood trees densely cover the slopes, and it is easy to see why the river is crowded during the fall foliage season.

Gillette's Castle
Gillette's Castle

We can also see the Chester-Hadlyme ferry going back and forth continually across the river. A ferry has been in operation here since the Revolutionary days, and this one ferry boat that, for $3, will take you and your car across the river, has been operating since 1947. The tiny ferry landing is quaint picturesque New England to the max, complete with picket fence and garden flowers.

Ferry Docking
Ferry Docking

Ferry Landing
Ferry Landing

The Becky Thatcher replica tour boat passes a few times a day. One evening, after tour hours were over, we watched the crew undergoing on water safety drill tests: man over board, broken bones, fire, and heart attack. Water based emergency services boats assisted, so there was lots of activity.

Looking for Tom Sawyer
Looking for Tom Sawyer

Several times a day an old steam locomotive, a narrow gauge tour train from Essex, slowly passes by on shore, tooting its horn and blowing up a steady stream of steam. We can see people sitting on the little train through the open windows. It is so quaint New England!

The Essex Steam Tour Train
The Essex Steam Tour Train

On one dinghy trip to shore we have to pass under the railroad tracks, and the people on the train wave to us as they pass over the little creek. We continue up the creek, passing under the Rt 154 (old Rt.9) overpass to where we land the dinghy ashore near Chester to tour the town. Finding a place to land the dinghy can be a real challenge in some locations. Marinas don't take kindly to using their dock space if you don't rent a slip from them, and a lot of towns can't afford to provide public dock space. We decide to walk over to Deep River to have lunch at the Whistle Stop Cafe, a wonderful place we found last year on our land tour. We walked the 2 country miles only to find out the place was closed on Tuesdays! Oh well, we needed the exercise anyway, but I wasn't happy catching poison ivy on the way.

Chester Dinghy Landing
Chester Dinghy Landing

We take a dinghy ride on Selden Creek which circles Selden Neck State Park, an island park adjacent to the Connecticut River. Selden Creek is narrow, but deep, with high hills and cliffs on the sides, so some boats go up the creek to get out of the river traffic and enjoy the quiet, isolated wilderness. During the Revolutionary days, Selden Creek was used as a place for for boats to hide from British raiding parties. No musket fire on our trip, just lots of birds and a doe with two fawns. Thank you, Mother Nature.

Pickerelweed
Pickerelweed

We kayak up Whalebone Creek with its entrance marked by a gigantic overhanging towering boulder. Paddling through twisting channels with tree-lined banks out into open marsh, we see traps set for Alligator Snapping turtles. One trap has a large turtle in it, future soup no doubt. We packed a picnic lunch with the hopes of being able to make landfall, but the headwaters wind up in shallows of private property, so we have to settle for sitting in the shady area of a big tree over a mud flat. The tough life of full-time cruisers!


Whalebone Creek Entrance
Whalebone Creek Entrance

Kayak Lunch
Kayak Lunch

On July 26, 0900, we dinghied over to the ferry landing area park and picked up my brother, sister-in-law, her sister, and a friend for a day cruise to our mooring destination at Old Lyme Marina. It was the first time we had guests aboard for an on-the-water cruise, and it was the perfect day. Instead of immediately heading south to the marina, we headed north so everyone could see the Gillette Castle state park lands and fully restored Victorian Goodspeed Opera House along the East Haddam shore. By the time we made it to our marina mooring the bread that had been baking all morning was done and we had lunch aboard. Everyone volunteered for future crew duties!

Goodspeed Opera House
Goodspeed Opera House

Old Lyme Marina, Old Lyme Connecticut
July 26 – August 12, 2007

We're back at the same place we stayed last year where we were hit by another moored boat. We didn't think they would even let us come back, but they welcomed us like nothing happened. That is, except they put us on the very end of the mooring field (closer to the I-95 bridge overpass which makes FLUKE really dirty) and moved other boats away from us which makes us and them sleep better at night. At least we really aren't carrying the plague!

This marina makes life comfortable for us. We can walk to stores, the post office, a park, and have easy access to land the dinghy at the marina dock whenever we want. Plus, we have found WiFi connections that are available when FLUKE is in most positions. Like last year, my brother has given us his truck to use, so we aren't just restricted to getting things done by foot or bike. Even Ursa likes it since she can get regular walks on land. This is the area where we have all made arrangements to rendezvous with family and friends.

While we are attending a cookout feast at my niece's house in Waterford, Eddie strikes up a conversation with her step father-in-law (Bob) about working in the shipyard in years past. Eddie tells a story about one of his old buddies owning a creamery, and Bob said his cousin had one too. Turns out that his cousin was Eddie's buddy (Dickie), and we were planning on driving to Dickie's home in Franklin, CT to visit with him and his wife Sylvia. Small world syndrome! While we are there, another one of Eddie's ex work buddies, Cosmo, makes a surprise visit. Since he is interested in Eddie's new lifestyle we invite him and his wife, Gerry, to visit for lunch and take a FLUKE tour.

More boat guests included our friends Carole and Walter who have a home in Smithfield, RI and a home in our Vero Beach neighborhood where they reside in the winter months. They drove down for a late afternoon, early dinner, gabfest. A couple of women, Fern and Judy, who Eddie went to grade school with, and who still live in Old Lyme, came out to see Eddie's new “crib”.

Our friends, Carroll and Joan, former Vero Beach neighbors, ex-cruisers, and now current residents of the beautiful town of Old Saybrook right across the river from us, joined us on board for dinner. Then we made a follow-up visit to their home on North Cove to see all the work they had done to their historic home, including the addition of a 3 seasons room, since our visit last year. We admire their attention to detail and quality.

We had our first overnight guests, Kathy and Joe, who drove down from their Hewitt, NJ home. Since it was a beautiful day we dropped the mooring line and headed north again on the CT River to show them the waterway sights. Despite being long-time friends and avid blog followers it was the first time they had seen FLUKE, so we were so glad they could finally meet up with us and get a good feel for our new lifestyle.

Joe, Eddie, Kathy, Carol, Wayne
Joe, Eddie, Kathy, Carol, Wayne


Our nature interests don't wane just because we are in “civilization”. The marina's resident osprey family fledged 3 offspring this year (last year we only saw 2). They grow up so fast: when we first arrived the parents were still feeding them, despite their large size, and by the time we left, they were flying and catching their own food. We have seen hundreds of osprey and their nests (they love raising their families on the channel markers!) as we travel northward; their ages are related to how far south they are, with those farther south being the most mature.

Fledgling Ospreys
Fledgling Ospreys

The low tide brings forth a mud flat right next to us where geese, cormorants, gulls, wading birds of various sorts, and even vultures stop to preen. It is amazing how many feathers are in the water floating by us with the outgoing tide; it is like someone had a pillow fight. The area's top birding experience for me was getting to watch a pair of Baltimore Orioles picking caterpillars out of a tree on shore; their brilliant sunshine yellow and jet black plumage was in such vivid contrast to the chartreuse foliage.

One morning we take a kayak adventure out to the tidal marshes on the north side of the mouth of the CT River. The CT River is the third largest river on the east coast of the US. Because the area has always been dominated by shifting sands, shoaling, and extensive marshes no major port development for shipping ever established itself at the mouth of the river. So it still remains today as an important coastal estuary system to support the myriad of organisms of the lower part of the food chain for the CT River habitat.

Purple Loosestrife and Swamp Rose Mallow
Purple Loosestrife and Swamp Rose Mallow

However, the habitat is being altered by the invasion of the common reed plant called Phragmites. This exotic species, whose growth is encouraged by marsh disturbances and fresh water runoff, crowds out the native marsh grasses, reducing the species diversity necessary to support wetland animals. It makes kayaking through the area boring since the plants are so tall we can't see over them in a lot of places.

Lost in Phragmites
Lost in Phragmites

We pass by an interesting riverfront estate property. The owner bought these lovely Clydesdale horses from a local beer distributor. Instead of hauling the beer wagon they now look out over the Connecticut River every day and can be seen by travelers on I-95. He even moves them around periodically!

Low Maintenance Horses
Low Maintenance Horses

One of our favorite walks takes us along a small stretch of busy RT 156 to an abandoned road that leads to Bridge Head Park. It is the site of the old bridges that crossed the CT River and where I-95 now crosses the river. Park plaques give past bridges information and some geological history of the area, including the interesting factoid that the area was once covered in glacial ice 1 mile thick! This walk has let us see coyote, chipmunks, deer, turkeys, and pick wild raspberries for our breakfast cereal. It is also where I managed to get more poison ivy. Everything has a price, I guess.

Breakfast Treats
Breakfast Treats

Monday, August 06, 2007

New York City

The BIG Apple
July 18 – 20, 2007

Eddie and I whined enough, and Wayne finally relented, to have a few days in New York City to be tourists. Being the thrifty minded individuals that we have to be now, we decided we would check out the West 79th Street Boat Basin facility. We had talked to a sailboat while we were heading south on Delaware Bay who mentioned they were thinking of going there too and how inexpensive and convenient it was.

The skies looked bleak the entire morning, and we were waiting for the fog to lift enough for us to get through New York Harbor. By 1400 we had to decide to make the move or not as we had about 22 miles to go to get to the marina, and we wanted to get there before the rush hour peak and/or dark. So, we upped the anchor and began heading toward the Verrazano Narrows. A thunderstorm struck with heavy rains, but fortunately, not terrible winds. We had to creep along from one channel marker to another. After the storm blew through, we had good visibility, but the going was slow because of the outgoing strong current pushing against us. The heavy rains had washed the city streets clean and all the debris was in the waterway in huge floating masses: plastic, paper, tree leaves and limbs, auto parts, lumber, and pier and dock pieces. Just one more thing to have to worry about!

Passing through New York Harbor is always exciting because there is so much activity. The colorful orange Staten Island ferries and yellow New York City water taxis buzz about in stark contrast to the drab barges. I must say, though, that some of the tugs they use have some nice paint jobs and interesting shapes. I call one type a giraffe tug because it has a pilothouse that sits high atop a long extension from the lower deck so that the pilot can see over the tall barge it has to push. Today we are treated to the sight of the majestic Queen Mary 2 which had just docked earlier in the day.

We make the turn past the Battery to take our first trip up the Hudson River. We pass over the Lincoln and Holland tunnels and can see their huge ventilator shafts, the only visible evidence we are even going over them. We pass through an empty commercial dock section which we later see is where cruise ships dock. We are amused to see a multi-level driving range fully enclosed with netting and people hitting golf balls right out into the Hudson River. We wonder what keeps the people from falling off the platform and how many clubs must be laying on the river bottom!

Norwegian Spirit Arrival
Norwegian Spirit Arrival

By 1730 we have picked up our mooring lines and are as secured as we're going to be for our stay. Located adjacent to the Upper West Side, south of the George Washington Bridge and contiguous with Riverside Park, the marina is run by the City of New York Parks & Recreation. The facility operates 24hrs/day. There are docks for full time liveaboards, and the entire property is fenced off and locked up. To get in, you have to hail the office and be let in or let in by someone you know already there. They have an ice machine and free washer and dryer.

From a boating viewpoint, it appears that the boats at the docks take a real beating. Despite having a breakwater to cut down on wakes from the busy traffic on the Hudson, there is still a lot of wave action around the docked boats. Many fenders were flattened, boats with scraped hulls, bent rails, all evidence of lots of movement. The floating docks are very tippy; you have to be careful crossing from one section to the next. Carrying anything is a challenge. At least being on a mooring keeps the boat from being damaged, but it is a wake adventure to say the least. Since we were gone all day every day we didn't have to be bothered by it as much. At night traffic is at a minimum, so you don't have to really worry about getting rolled out of the bed from a bad wake.

Standing outside on our upper deck is quite interesting. We are right next to the buildings of the Upper West Side. Donald Trump has purchased a lot of property adjacent to the waterfront and has erected a couple of new high rises; the one right next to us is Trump Place. For developmental permits, builders are required to provide green space for community use, so a lot of improvements have been made to Riverside Park. This heavily treed area has attractive flower gardens, biking, walking, and running concourses, special seating and entertainment and dining areas. The city sponsors a summer program called Open Air Flicks whereby a huge screen is set up on a renovated pier (next to us), chairs are put out, and people can watch free movies. The city lights, especially those of the George Washington Bridge, look beautiful at night from our vantage point. I can't get good pictures of them from the boat because it is moving and distorts the photo.

Color in the Park
Color in the Park

NYC Rainbow
NYC Rainbow

City personnel are in the process of setting up for a Triathlon which will take place on Sunday. Participants will swim in the Hudson (a cringing thought for we swimmers of Bahamian waters!) right by where FLUKE is moored.

Central To Our Thoughts

After a restful night's sleep, we (including Ursa) started out early to spend the day in Central Park which was within easy walking distance from the marina. Right after we arrived there we knew we would not be seeing the whole park in one day, so we focused our efforts on seeing the sights within the area bounded by Central Park West and Fifth Avenue and W59th St. and W81st St.

We learned that Central Park is so beautiful thanks to the efforts of the Central Park Conservancy which manages the Park under a contract with the City of New York. The CPC was formed in 1980 and has raised over $325 million dollars from private citizens, foundations, and corporations to transform Central Park from the beat up condition of the late 70s to the outstanding model of an urban park that it is today. There is something for everyone now to enjoy in a safe, serene or entertaining, and invigorating atmosphere.

Park and the City
Park and the City

We were so surprised by the diversity of activity and sights within the Park. There are open fields where organized sports and functions are held to little corners with quiet benches where people are required to use headphones to listen to music. Cultivated flowers provide bright, attractive spots of color. In contrast,The Ramble is an area left in its native state so you can walk in a natural, densely wooded forest more like you would see in areas far removed from the City. Fountains and plaza areas showcase architectural styles. Fascinating sculptures catch your eye. Science isn't left out as you can visit the zoo or hike up to the meteorological station at Belvedere Castle which also provides a great elevated opportunity to see the Park from above. Rent a row boat and enjoy some solitude and exercise on the lake.

Belvedere Castle
Belvedere Castle

When it was time for lunch, rather than using a Park vendor, we walked over to Lexington Ave. and found a deli. We took the food back to the Park and ate on a bench like hundreds of other people were doing. Pigeons and sparrows flocked around to get the tiny crumbs that Ursa left behind or that we threw out just for them.

Ursa proved to be a real people magnet, even for the likes of New York City. Children and adults want to pet her (many think she is a “puppy”), and dog lovers are so curious about what kind of breed she is. Despite her dislike towards other dogs, she welcomed the opportunity to take a break from walking to get friendly rubs from strangers. One attractive woman wearing a little black dress talking on her cell phone motioned for us to stop so she could pet Ursa. While doing so, she kept talking on the phone, seemingly ignoring our presence, and said “They're going to pay for your sperm”!

We were all dragging by the time we walked back to FLUKE, but had already started talking about what we planned to do the next day.

The Downtown Tour

After yesterday's adventure, we were looking forward even more to spending Friday in the City.

A short walk to the nearest subway station led to the first “challenge”. None of us had ever purchased subway fares, so we had to figure out what to do. At least we knew where we needed to go, but didn't realize there were express routes, so we mistakenly got on a regular commuter route and stopped at all the stations. Not to worry though, we had allowed time for such “mistakes”. Our jaws dropped when we climbed up the stairs at our Times Square destination and saw all the lights, tall buildings, and hustle and bustle in the crowded streets.

Times Square
Times Square

We needed to find Madame Tussauds where we would begin our Downtown tour on a City Sights NY bus. The buses all provide top deck seating to give passengers the best views possible. Guides narrate, pointing out historical and popular City sights and provide interesting anecdotes about people, places, and events. You can hop off and on at any stop. There are so many buses in service, waits for the next bus are seldom more than 20 minutes.

Tourists
Tourists (on the bus)

Our tour stops included: Madison Square Garden, Macy's, Empire State Building, SoHo, Chinatown, Little Italy, World Trade Center Site, Wall Street, Financial District, Battery Park, South Street Seaport, Lower East Side, United Nations, Rockefeller Center, Carnegie Hall, and Broadway.

DKNY
DKNY

Since we wanted to “see” as much of the area as time would permit, we agreed we wouldn't take time to do any shopping. Plus, we elected to do a lot more walking from area to area rather than getting on and off the bus.

NYSE
NYSE

Bullish
Bullish

We bought deli sandwiches near the World Trade Center site and ate in a park in the Financial District. Then we walked over to Wall Street where Eddie grabbed the famous Bull by the balls because we heard it was supposed to be good luck, but the Market has fallen ever since! We passed the beautiful old Customs House and walked on to Battery Park which was packed with people waiting in lines by the hundreds to get on the ferries to visit Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty.

Liberty Man
Liberty Man

Battery Park Skyline
Battery Park Skyline

We spent the most stationary time at Rockefeller Center. The famous ice skating rink is an outdoor cafe during the summer, complete with tropical plants and gushing, sparkling fountains. A farmer's market was in full swing where the giant Christmas tree sits during the holiday season. We entered the GE Buidling and took the super fast(2 min. 45 sec.) elevator with blue lights in the ceiling that twinkle like stars to the 70th floor. This is the Top of the Rock, where you go to the outdoor observation deck to see the City from above. On a great weather day, this was the place to be! We were able to identify many of the places we saw on our bus and walking trips and even see all the way into Long Island Sound where we would be traveling the next day.

Rockefeller Plaza
Rockefeller Plaza

Central Park Overview
Central Park Overview

East River and Beyond
East River and Beyond

Empire State Building
Empire State Building

While we couldn't bring ourselves to buy “I Love NY” tee shirts (only 5/$10), we did love our time in the City and look forward to return visits.