Looking For George

October 9 – 13, 2007

Guess Where We Went

Most of the time life on FLUKE runs under the principles of democracy. So, after our Krogen rendezvous was over, with Eddie and I whining and begging, we decided to head up the Potomac River to the nation's seat of democracy to visit Washington, DC.

We were surprised how really large the Potomac River is, about 100 miles long and 12 miles wide in places, so it would be a 2 day trip for us to get all the way to D.C.. I expected to see the banks of the river fully developed so was pleasantly surprised to see a lot of well-canopied vacant land, some “camp” sites with shacks and travel trailers, and many acres of land dedicated to military and government use, but with few visible buildings. We didn't think it was just a coincidence that we lost our GPS for a short period of time passing a couple of the government installations.

Mt. Vernon sits on a high bluff overlooking the river. As I was looking through the binoculars to try to get a better look at the estate a bald eagle flew right across my field of vision! Is that the true spirit of America or what? As long as I looked at the property I still could not see any sign of George. We knew more opportunities would lie ahead.

Mount Vernon

We were relieved to find suitable anchoring room in the Washington Channel. It is adjacent to the East Potomac Park land, on whose northern end is the Tidal Basin. We had to call the Harbor Patrol to get a 7 day visitor's pass and give them boat information for security purposes. For $15/day we could use the Capital Yacht Club facility, including its secured dinghy dock, giving us easy access to land, so we would be able to walk to all the sights we wanted to visit. From our anchorage we could see the top of the Washington Monument, planes using the Ronald Reagan Airport, and have military helicopters rattle our windows as they flew low directly overhead shuttling VIPs back and forth from government sites. The old Presidential yacht, Sequoia, now a charter boat, was docked right across from us and looked so graceful and elegant as she glided past.

THE Place to Stay

Potomac Spa

Presidential Yacht Sequoia

The BIG Picture

Our first day ashore was full of surprises in just getting used to how really huge the buildings are, not in height, but in the amount of area they cover over the ground.

Dept of Commerce

Russell Senate Offices

Unlike, New York City, Washington (around the Mall) is a business city, not a people city: leisure clothes are for tourists and suits are for business and government people; it is easy to tell who's who. The vagrants are kept out of sight (park benches, what few there are, have dividers in two places, making it impossible to lay down on) so you are not accosted by pan handlers. There are no retail stores and few restaurants. All the museums and monuments are free and open all day. It is remarkable how unique each memorial looks and what different feelings each one evokes.

You can use a trolley or bus service if you don't want to walk or if you think your balance is good enough, sign up for a Segway tour. We found it just as easy to walk everywhere: it is 2 miles from the Lincoln Memorial at the west end of the National Mall to the Capitol Building on the east end. When you see us in our photos, you can see that walking is a good idea for us anyway; we don't ever get too much exercise!

Segway Group Tour

The Lincoln Memorial impresses you because of the sizes of its components and its location. The statue of President Lincoln is 19' tall and 19' wide. The detailed, life-like features of Lincoln knowingly look outward through the huge columns, over the Reflecting Pool all the way to the Capitol Building. No matter how “big” (literally and figuratively) of a person you might think you are, standing next to this wise Mr. Lincoln gives you a different perspective.

Lincoln Memorial

Carol Reflecting

The World War II Memorial sits at the opposite end of the Reflecting Pool, a fitting spot with its beautiful fountains seemingly being fed by those still waters. This memorial honors the 16 million Americans who fought in the war, the 400,000 who died and the millions of others who supported the war effort from home. The detailed gold stars on the Freedom Wall and wreaths on each State of the Union column lend the setting an elegant grandeur.

World War II Memorial

The Korean War and Vietnam Veterans Memorials are both located on the west end of the Reflecting Pool within easy walking distance of the Lincoln Memorial and are well worth a visit. The Korean War Veterans Memorial is unique in that it has a platoon of soldiers depicted as they would have been on a patrol. There is so much detail in the statues: the men and the expressions on their faces, their uniforms, weaponry, etc. A polished granite wall has carved scenes that look as though they came from actual war photographs. Reflecting ponds lend serenity and capture the light off the sparkling black granite.

Korean War Memorial

The Vietnam Veterans Memorial is unique because it is part of the earth. The brilliantly polished black slabs of granite, inscribed with each of the 58,245 casualties, are set level with the surrounding land. The polished side reflects the people looking at the wall, sky, and trees all around. The 246' long wall is viewed up close by walking down a gentle incline; the height of the wall ranges from 10' in the middle and then tapers out to points on either end. Since this memorial lends individuality to each casualty, viewers may choose to leave mementos at the base of the slab where a loved one's name appears or take a paper rubbing of the name itself.

Vietnam Veterans Memorial

Well, we didn't see George at any of the memorial sights so we decided to walk right on over to his house and see if he might be out and about.

Since we had made an impromptu visit to D.C. we were unable to get into the White House. Visitors can still get in for tours, but you have to apply 6 months in advance. However, we were content to be able to look through the fences at the front and back of the house. In the front, on Pennsylvania Ave., a woman was engaged in some sort of protest rantings about George collaborating with the devil. It was a hot day, but we didn't see George or the devil.

A Back Door Peek

There is a White House Visitors Center at the Department of Commerce building a couple of blocks from the White House, so we visited that. We watched an informative movie about the construction and history of the building itself. There are numerous displays and photos depicting life in the White House. One of our favorites was a section talking about White House Pets. You always hear about the dogs and cats, but there have been a lot of other types of pets, especially when there were children living in the White House. The Roosevelts had a real menagerie, including a one-legged rooster!

Franklin Delano Roosevelt had such a known passion for animals one of the outdoor rooms at the FDR Memorial shows him with his beloved dog, Fala. This memorial is unique in that each of the rooms depicts important events for each of Roosevelt's four terms in office. Calming, wise, and inspirational words he used for some of his famous radio fireside chats are inscribed on the red granite walls. With its fountains flowing gently down granite walls , trees, and statuary this memorial is less imposing than the others and lends itself better to private contemplation.

FDR and his pal, Fala

Looking out across the Tidal Basin you can see the very grand Thomas Jefferson Memorial. Besides being the third president of the U.S. and author of the Declaration of Independence, Jefferson was also an architect. His Memorial was patterned after the colonnaded classical style he helped bring into use in this country.

Thomas Jefferson Memorial

Information Overload!

We got an early start on Day 2 so we could rush over to the Washington Monument ticket kiosk to get free tickets to take the 70 second elevator ride (you can't walk up any more) to the Monument's 500' level (it is 555' tall overall) and see what D.C. looked like from above. The tickets are for 30 min. intervals, given out on a first come, first served basis for the current day only. Walk down tours are available on a limited basis; they allow you to see the 195 carved memorial stones that line the inside of the obelisk. You get to see a few of them on the elevator ride down when the attending ranger makes periodic stops to point out the more interesting ones.

Washington Monument

It was a cold, very blustery morning (typical weather following a frontal passage), and since the waiting area is on butt-freezing, granite benches at the open, very exposed, base of the Monument we had to huddle together with our backs to the wind to try to be comfortable. Even though we were in the 10:30 a.m. group, tours were already running behind schedule so we had to wait even longer. We were happy when the park ranger finally came over and said we could go through the security checkpoint to get clearance to get on the elevator. All of the indoor memorials and museums require you to go through some security procedures now.

Visible from more vantage points than any other building, the Washington Monument is the tallest structure in Washington, representing the founder of our country and the immensity of his leadership and contribution to the cause of independence. It is a symbol of respect, gratitude, and a towering reminder of the force of a single individual who put his country before all else. The focus of the monument lies in its ability to be seen from without, not within.

When we exited the elevator at the viewing level the first impression I got was how “unfinished” and confining the level is. There is no real ceiling; you just look up and see the raw blocks and structural supports. The red aerial safety lights that we can see flashing at night from FLUKE lie right over your head, flashing away. The exterior viewing ports are small; only 3 people can easily peer out at one time, but you aren't restricted to the amount of time you can spend at the top. The ports are somewhat weathered and covered with greasy fingerprints (and probably, spit) from the tourists, so trying to get clear photographs is a real challenge. We were so happy to be able to see FLUKE sitting right where she was supposed to be in the Washington Channel; we are always nervous about leaving her alone at anchor when it is so windy. It was interesting, informative, and time well spent to be able to see the city from above; you certainly get a better feel for the layout of the Mall, memorials, museums, and government buildings. However, we still hadn't seen George!

Looking West From the Top

We knew we wanted to visit a couple of the Smithsonian museums and decided to visit the Smithsonian Castle first to get some history and overview of the organization. The Castle was completed in 1855 as the museum's original home. Its distinctive architecture, small size, and color make it the most easily recognized building on the Mall. The crypt of the Englishman James Smithson lies inside The Castle. Smithson was a research scientist, who upon his death, despite never having visited the U.S., left his entire wealthy estate to be used for the establishment of an institution in Washington D.C. to further “the increase and diffusion of knowledge”. Fortunately no one pocketed the money for other causes, and thus, we all can freely benefit from his legacy when we visit any one of the wonderful Smithsonian museums.

Smithsonian Castle

The most visited museum in the world is the National Air and Space Museum, and that's where we decided to go first. We were educated in the history of air travel and exploration from balloon flights, the Wright Brothers, early unmanned and manned space launches, moon explorations, and space stations. Planes, rockets, satellites, and space memorabilia are on display. You get to learn how an astronaut goes to the bathroom in space! One of the most popular displays is a mock-up of Sky Lab that you can enter. You can also see how man kept his feet on the ground to explore the far planets of the solar system and other galaxies using telescopes, satellite imagery, and photography. Areas are devoted to military and commercial aircraft; see both American and foreign fighter aircraft and a real Boeing 747 nose section.

Apollo-Soyuz

There are several exciting IMAX movies. Plus, there are models of flight simulators to test your piloting skills; a couple even require co-pilots, and some rotate a full 360 degrees upside down! Eddie had to try one out and ended up “flying” off an aircraft carrier and through some narrow mountain passes. No crash and burn for him!

I think we left the building realizing how little we really know, rather than how many new things we learned during our visit!

The Whole Day?

Day 3 was devoted to the National Museum of Natural History. The massive classical Beaux-Arts style buidling was originally opened in 1910, but has undergone periodic renovations and additions. The total area of the museum equals the size of 18 football fields; the huge space is needed to house the 126 million specimens, IMAX theater, labs, offices, and storage areas.

The exhibit halls display animal, plant, mineral, fossil, and even cultural specimens about man's life on the planet earth. Exhibits are changed as new scientific discoveries are made supporting theories about the origin and evolution of life on earth or new specimens are donated from private collections.

We spent the most time viewing what is the favorite attraction of most visitors, the fossilized bones of dinosaurs, some from 230 million years ago. We were also fascinated with the displays depicting the evolution of life on earth with its supporting fossil evidence of early forms of simple plant and animal life through more complex forms of oceanic life up until the first land creatures that moved about primordial swamps.

T. rex

Judging by how crowded the hall was, the gems and mineral displays also proved popular with many, including us. I loved looking at all the colorful minerals with their brilliant colors and interesting shapes. It is amazing that they can be extracted from deep within the earth, transported, and still be so delicate and beautiful. Most of the minerals on display you don't hear about because they are too rare, soft, or difficult to work with to turn into gemstones. You can even see the world's largest collection of meteorites, certainly not easily found!

Green and White are a Delight

Orange You Fascinated?

The gemstones are fascinating; you see the rarest and largest of the most common gems in cut and uncut form: rubies, diamonds, sapphires, opals, and emeralds. The Hope Diamond and other famous historical jewelry pieces are popular on most visitors' viewing lists.

Hope Diamond

Despite spending the entire day here, we only skimmed the surface of what the museum has to offer and would need several more trips to truly see everything.

The Last Surprise

Our last day touring the city was going to be spent mostly outside at the farthest point from FLUKE, so we were happy to have a cool, clear, windless day.

We walked over to the U.S. Capitol building. I haven't mentioned that it seems like there were a lot of Asian (Chinese, Korean, Japanese) tourists; they travel in large groups, mostly dressed in black and white clothing, with a lot of them smoking (talk about profiling!). This morning several Asian group photos were being taken on the lawn in front of the Capitol building. There were also lots of other tourists, but the building and surrounding areas are so large you don't feel crowded.

U.S. Capitol

Standing on the lower portico of the Capitol sitting atop Jenkins Hill, looking west towards the Lincoln Memorial you have an appreciation for the visionary design skills of Pierre Charles L'Enfant who developed a plan for the city's layout 200 years ago. The Mall area with its magnificent buildings, museums, and memorials easily accessible to the American people is a testament to the wealth, freedom, and opportunity this country has to offer.

Three Present Day Patriots

We walked around the Capitol to the Thomas Jefferson Building to visit the Library of Congress. We had no idea what to expect, and this stop surprised us the most. It is the largest library in the world and was founded to serve the research needs of Congress. However, if you are above high school age you can get a library card and use the reading rooms for free. Don't visit the building expecting to just see stacks of books.

After going through the visitor's entrance and walking up the stairs to the Great Hall your jaw will drop and your eyes will bug out of your head. You might think you have been transported to a European palace. Looming 75' overhead is an enormous stained glass ceiling. The entire room is surrounded by marble columns connected by carved decorative arches. The walls and ceilings are entirely covered by paintings, murals, and mosaics from some of our nation's finest artists. Sculptures of the world's literary giants stand as timely representations of their works. You can view downward into the Main Reading Room, actually catching a glimpse of some books, and stand in awe of the majesty of the great circular room with its ornately decorated domed ceiling. A visit to Washington should include a stop here!

Looking up in the Library of Congress

The U.S. Supreme Court building is on the north side of the Thomas Jefferson Building, so it was an easy walk to view the grand entrance and step right up to where we see all the newscasts and interviews televised from. Since it was Saturday there wasn't much activity in this part of town. Plus, for security reasons, the massive front doors of the building are seldom used nowadays.

Incognito at the Supreme Court

We decided to walk another half dozen blocks north to Union Station to get some lunch. The busy, clean, attractive train building was humming with people getting off trains. The upper level houses a shopping mall, while the lower level has a food court with at least 50 vendors, so it was easy to find something satisfying for lunch. We took our food over to the park at Union Station Plaza and ate outside on one of the few benches we could find.

Union Station

Refueled, we were able to take a leisurely hike back towards FLUKE, traversing the Mall, viewing outlying government buildings (Eddie wondered if he could pick up his social security check in person when we went by that building!), and even some residential areas. There was a lot more to be seen, but we will have to do that on another visit; it was time to pull up the anchor and head further south.

Oh, our disappointment in not finding the nation's first or current George, was overshadowed by the enjoyment and education we received from visiting their neighborhood. Thank you, America!

From FDR Memorial

Great Shellfish Bay

September 27 – October 7, 2007

That's the translation for the Algonquin Indian word Chesapeake. This is the 4th time we have been through the Bay with FLUKE, but it will be the first time we have spent quality time getting to do some sightseeing. Great weather has put us ahead of schedule by 6 days before the start of our Krogen rendezvous!

Chesapeake Bay is the largest estuary in the U.S.: 195 miles long, 3.4 – 35 miles wide, and 21- 174' deep. A lot of cruisers spend multiple summers here exploring inland creeks, visiting historic towns to learn about early American government and maritime history, or just recreating on the wide open waters of the wildlife rich Bay.

Crabs, Crabs, and more Crabs

They compete for channel space with all types of commercial vessels, some daily working boats that ply the Bay waters for fish, crabs, oysters or clams. Others are gigantic ocean going freighters or tankers that are transporting grains, automobiles, or petroleum products to large ports such as Baltimore or industrial ports at points north accessed via the C & D Canal. We can't forget the Naval military vessels of all kinds that utilize the southern end of the Bay from the Atlantic Ocean to the huge Naval facility at Norfolk.

We decide the logical places to visit would be south of where we exited the Elk River after going through the C & D Canal and closer to Solomons, MD where our rendezvous was to be held. Wayne had recently read about an anchorage called Langford Creek which had been given favorable reviews and was located on Maryland's eastern shore near some small towns that sounded appealing, so we decided to try that first.

Actually getting to Langford Creek involved going about 16 miles off of the Bay up the Chester River. The scenic, winding passage goes through a lot of farmlands and wooded areas. Apparently duck hunting is a popular sport since there was a duck blind on every point of land. By the time we finally managed to get securely anchored we were near an old farmhouse with a huge silo and recently plowed under corn fields. The area was so quiet and peaceful.

Duck Blind

Rocking at Rock Hall, MD

Further investigation revealed that we could pick up a trolley service ride to Rock Hall from the parking lot of the Lankford Creek Marina, an easy dinghy ride from where we were anchored. The clean marina is a full service facility with lots of dock space, haul out service, pool, ship's store, and friendly staff kind enough to allow us to leave our dinghy there the whole day we went into town for Rock Hall's annual Fall Fest. Our trip to town got off to a shaky start when our ride to town showed up driving a Ford Explorer instead of the trolley, thinking she was picking up 4 adults, when actually there were 7 adults. She offered to make 2 trips, but we toughed it out, putting 3 people, including Eddie, in the back with the gas cans!

Festive Street Banner

Rock Hall, at the very end of MD Route 20 by land, was originally a tobacco port-of-call. As commerce changed the land crop was changed to bay bounties such as crabs, oysters, and fish. Hunting for those treasures from the sea still occurs today with both commercial and recreational fisherman calling Rock Hall their home port.

Old Oars Inn

The town remains small and laid back. The picturesque main street has vintage buildings, galleries, boutiques, and restaurants all centered around their Bay cultural heritage. For the Fall Fest, the quiet nature of the town was left behind for a day, replaced with live music, food (we had crab dawgs and clam strips for lunch) and art vendors, and educational exhibits depicting historical events and Bay wildlife viewing opportunities. Our favorite musical act was a couple of men imitating the Blues Brothers. It was so small town funny with lots of audience participation.

Blues Brothers Revisted

The main town dock had an original Bay Skipjack boat, now currently used for educational purposes. These traditional, wooden, oyster drag boats gained fame for coming up with a novel idea on how to get around the law which was passed saying that only sailing vessels could drag for oysters. They are a large, open decked sailing vessel with a large hold compartment down below. Sturdy enough to carry heavy drag gear, they also carry a small, motorized push boat off the stern which actually pushes them along during the dragging process. We heard that there are about a dozen Skipjacks still in operation today. In the heyday of plentiful oyster harvesting they could stay out on the Bay for long periods of time, sailing from bed to bed. Bay Buy boats (one on display in the water at the dock was vintage 1920s) would pull up alongside and buy oysters to resell on shore.

Other displays showed antique tools that were used for hand harvesting oysters, clams,and crabs. Unfortunately we missed the crab picking contest-I always wondered how the pros picked those crabs!

Maryland, Not England!

To put ourselves even closer to Solomons we decided our next stop would be Oxford, MD, located almost right across the Bay from Solomons, 30 miles away. That would mean we could just spend a morning getting to the rendezvous marina.

To get to Oxford we decided to take a “shortcut” called the Kent Narrows. It is just a tiny strip of water with a fast current and a 65' wide drawbridge for a multi lane overhead highway connecting the Chester River to the Eastern and Prospect Bays. Since the area is prone to shoaling it is dredged regularly and navigational markers are moved as needed, or so boaters hope. One dredged part of the channel is 8' deep and 60' wide, so it is a tight passage for us, especially if it is windy. Since we have entered into a “bolder” stage of our cruising life we decided to give it a try this first day of October. All the markers were accurate so we passed through with little strife.

Kent Narrows Drawbridge

Since conditions were mild we decided to anchor almost at the intersection of the Tred Avon River and Plaindealing Creek. We found good holding, and it would be an easy dinghy ride across the Tred Avon to get into Oxford. An added bonus for me was getting to see a commercial crabber right up close one morning. As a single boat operator he was using a method whereby he placed a long line baited (commercial crabbers use eels) at 3-4 yd intervals. The line sinks to the bottom. He retrieves the line and hooks it to an arm with a little wheel hanging over the side of the boat. Slowly driving the boat forward the line is drawn up. As the crabs become visible the crabber scoops them from the piece of bait they are holding on to and dumps them into a basket. I would like to try that, but not every day or in rainy, cold, or windy weather!

The Early Morning Crabber

Oxford was founded in 1683 as a port of entry for the Maryland province, making it an important center for international shipping up until the time of the American Revolution. Today the town is on the National Registry of Historic Places, with minimal commercialism. The narrow tree-lined streets are bordered with well preserved private homes. There is even one home, the Grapevine House, that has a grapevine from the Isle of Jersey planted in 1810. The tallest structure in town is the decorative water tower.

Oxford Building Mural

Taking a Rest

It is nice to spend some time walking along the streets admiring the beautiful homes, looking out over the water and docks at the commercial fishing boats plying their trades, taking your pick of several waterside restaurants, and peeking in at all the work in progress in the active boatyards in town. A trip to the Cutts & Case yard is a must. They specialize in classic wood boat restoration and have 2 huge covered boat sheds filled with boats. It is like a museum, and they openly welcome you to walk through the facility and even take your dog! There is a real museum in town, aptly named Oxford Museum, but it was closed the day we visited.

Cutts and Case

We bought really yummy deli sandwiches from the Oxford Deli & Market and took them over to the park for a picnic lunch. We were impressed with townspeople who stopped to talk to us in two different places, asking if we had any questions and where we were from. The town has a reputation for welcoming boaters, and it is evident in the atmosphere where ever you walk.

The Strand

You can't leave Oxford without a leisurely stroll along the main waterfront street known as The Strand. The historic Oxford Bellevue Ferry landing is on one end. The ferry Talbot can carry 9 cars, some motorcycles and bikes and walkers. That operation really adds such a home town flair.

Ferry Talbot

Ferry History

The Robert Morris Inn (1710), now famous for its crabcakes, even sent out nationwide, was originally the home of RM Sr. and Jr. Jr., being a pal of George Washington, helped finance the Revolutionary War. George rewarded him by letting him sign the Declaration of Independence, Articles of Confederation, and U.S. Constitution.

Robert Morris Inn

We had a great day in town such that when we got back to the dock where we had left the dinghy we were only mildly irritated to find that the tide had gone out and left FIN with more mud than water underneath. The crew exchanged some loud, bad sailor words with each other trying to place blame (that is often the first priority on this ship) and then proceeded to try to solve the problem. I wanted to document the event with a photograph, but my crew members didn't like the idea. Fortunately I was far enough away where neither one of them could grab the camera. They have this crazy idea that I shouldn't be telling our readers about our “mistakes”. That's silly because if anyone was keeping score we would be big winners by far, so when I can sneak in some boating “dirt” I will. I bet it makes you laugh anyway, right?

Men at Work

The Big Event
October 3 – 6, 2007

The official starting date of the Krogen Cruisers/Kadey-Krogen Yachts 30th Anniversary rendezvous was October 4. However, on October 3 we got a call from our friend, Ted, on our sistership, Seaclusion, telling us if we wanted to be sure to get the power hook up we needed to get to the dock ASAP. Apparently Krogen owners were very anxious to get together with others of their kind and the majority of the boats were already at Calvert Marina's dock.

Since this was our first “big” rendezvous we were really curious how these big boats were all going to be packed into such a small space. For these events the boats do not side tie to the dock. Two opposing docks are used, stern tying each boat to the dock and then to the boats on either side. Line handlers (volunteer Krogen owners) pull the boats into their place by using long lines strung from both the bow and stern of the boat to docks on either side. They did such a great job packing all the boats in, and it sure was interesting just to watch how they did it. It is a great way to meet the other Krogen owners who are packed in tightly all around.

Some of the Krogen Fleet

After FLUKE was safely tied to, we plugged in our power cable. We felt like we had just returned from a Lewis & Clarke type expedition as it was the first time since we left Florida in June that we had plugged into shoreside electrical service. Plus, we could use all the water we wanted since we also had dockside water hookup. Ahh, to have a really long hot shower was a treat for all. Even doing the 4 loads of laundry was a relief. I usually let the laundry pile up until I know we will have access to water since it takes about 20 gals to do a large load, and I can't justify using that much water when the supply is limited.

When we checked in at the registration table we were given the complete agenda of activities so we could plan what events and presentations we wanted to go to. We still had a great surprise when, as we were sitting down to our first dinner on board at the dock, our friends, Janet and Bruce Smith (No Call), peeked in the cockpit door. We had spent time with them in the Bahamas this past Spring, and they had said they wouldn't be able to attend the rendezvous. Turns out, Kadey-Krogen asked them to do all the photographic and videographic work for the event and flew them in. The fruits of their labors will be a DVD, a copy gifted to all attendees from Kadey-Krogen. I'm sure it will be a treasured keepsake based on seeing other works created by Janet and Bruce.

For the opening night dinner, 225 people were seated. There were 70 boats registered, representing 7 different Krogen models. Some owners, or wannabes, had flown or driven to the site. Our friends who own another sistership, Reclaim, flew in from their home in Colorado. We had the opportunity to meet the new owners of the first Whaleback, Adagio, we ever looked at (it was love at first sight!). It was fun talking to them about their boat; they are Canadians and cruise up in Georgian Bay. Sounds like a place we would enjoy.

We listened to speaker presentations about several boating topics. One of our favorites was a detailed slide show about the history of Krogen yachts and the building of a Krogen 44 over at the Asia Harbor factory in Taiwan. The attention to detail and craftsmanship during construction is why the yachts turn out so beautifully in the end. Every person who steps aboard FLUKE always remarks about the beauty of the wood and quality of the joinery. Now we know how it's done.

We had a 2 day flea market and book swap tent. Cruisers could sell boat items that they no longer needed or just give things away that might be useful to someone else. We've been reading a lot this summer, so we had a lot of books to put out, and we were able to pick up even a greater number in return.

Unique to this rendezvous was a dog parade. Dogs are such popular cruising companions, and the Krogen group certainly has its fair share of canines; 2 dozen dogs joined in for the evening dock stroll wearing their finest cruising attire. Funny costumes such as a chili suit for a long, low dog and a lady bug for a little tiny squirmy Yorkie made people laugh. Ursa looked chic in her famous sunglasses.

Two of the most favorite events at each rendezvous are the gadget presentations and the famous Krogen Krawl. The gadget presentation is a group event that lets cruisers show anything they found to be useful for life and travel on a boat: hardware, tools, galley ware, pet supplies, safety aids, and items for fun and entertainment. The Krawl is basically an open boat time whereby cruisers allow other cruisers to tour their boats to see any kind of work that has been done or just to show off a new decorating scheme. Both events are such a great way to learn.

No one can talk about a rendezvous without commenting about the food. Opening night was a couple of hours of appetizers followed by a chicken BBQ with member potluck dishes. The second night had delicious Caribbean themed food. Open bars, sumptuous desserts, and lots of door prizes made for some real happy Krogenites.

We were happy to have been able to attend and get some faces attached to the names of cruisers who regularly share information in the newsletters and email list serve. It wasn't sad to leave: we were eating too much food, we had more places to go, and we needed to rest from a 3 day whirlwind. Getting away from the dock went smoothly as everyone cooperatively took their time easing the big boats apart.

Krogens Departing

Stay tuned for the next chapter when we share our adventures about “Looking for George”.

Maine to Chesapeake Bay

September 19 – 26, 2007

Time For a Schedule

Birthdays are always on the same schedule, year after year, whether you want one or not. So our last day, Sept. 18, at the Eddy Marina was spent celebrating Wayne's 56th birthday: chocolate cake, chicken enchiladas, and an Old Lyme Marina hat (he really needed a new hat; I'd been threatening to throw his favorite old one, heavily ladened with sweat and hair oil, overboard since we left Florida!).

We needed to allow some time for potentially poor weather when we would not be able to travel and still get to Solomons, MD by Oct. 4. So, we left at 0600 on the following day. Luck was with us as we had an outgoing current. We don't want to travel on the Sheepscot River at a high tide because the lobster buoys get pulled under the surface of the water, and then we can't see them, making it more likely that one or more at the same time could get tangled in our prop.

Seguin Island Lighthouse

3' swells off the port beam made for a rolly start to our southern journey, but we still enjoyed seeing a myriad of ocean creatures: whales, schools of tuna, a shark, and an ocean sunfish. Since I couldn't get my own photo of this unusual creature I am posting one I found on line because you have to see one to believe my description when I tell you it looks like a fish that has been compressed from end to end. They can get up to 5000# in weight and 11' long. Since they like to lay right at the surface (sunfish!) they can be a hazard to boats. King Neptune was with us all day as we managed to safely run over 2 lobster buoys with just a loud thwack sound on the hull and no fatal prop entanglements. Since we were able to leave so early we made it all the way to Isles of Shoals, on the Maine/New Hampshire border. Calm conditions meant we could pick up one of the free moorings at 1630, making for a long day.

Ocean Sunfish

White Island, Isles of Shoals

We anchored at Provincetown, MA again. The harbor was much less crowded than during our visit in August. A lot of the moorings had already been removed for the winter. Tour boats were still operating, and there was the usual recreational boating activity associated with this lovely harbor. Noisy terns were feeding on baitfish and roosting on untended boats.

Cute Little Visitors

Despite having a perfectly smooth ride across Cape Cod Bay we were still anxious to get into the Cape Cod Canal, one of our favorite places to rubber neck; there is always something happening. Sept. 21 brought a fisherman's dream day. Stripers were hitting on baitfish, making the water white, sometimes kicking up spray 4-5' high. Many people were fishing from shore, and I could see them hauling in fish. Fishing from boats in the canal is prohibited, but it was fun for us just to look in the water at the huge schools of fish, watch the feeding frenzies and the other people reeling them in.

Massachusetts Maritime Academy Windmill

We had discussed making it a point to try out new places to anchor when conditions were favorable and our daily cruising schedule made it feasible. So, we decided to anchor at the Point Judith Harbor of Refuge. This “sheltered” anchorage, on the boundary of Rhode Island Sound and Block Island Sound, is just a mile of huge granite rocks in the shape of a big V. Getting in behind the V gives mariners a chance to get out of bad currents or rolling seas into some protected water. We found the holding to be good, but there is quite a bit of roll from commercial and recreational boaters that use the area to go into Point Judith, RI. It would not be a place to stop if the winds and seas were really high. We liked stopping here under calm conditions because it is easy to get out of in the morning when it is still dark, and with a stellar weather forecast we wanted to try to make it all the way to Cold Springs Harbor the next day, where we felt comfortable going into in the dark if we needed to.

What Is That Smell?

That question usually has negative connotations when uttered on a boat. When we woke up early on Sept. 23 in Cold Springs Harbor we could smell sulfur in the salon area, a truly bad sign since the engine room lies beneath that area. Inspections revealed that the generator battery had shorted out and was boiling the battery acid in the battery box. Not a good thing, but a fire would have been worse. So much for an early start.

Wayne called Tow Boat US to ask for advice and was told to contact Oyster Bay Marine Center, right around the corner from where we were anchored. OBMC said we could tie up to their face dock and look at the batteries they had in stock. While Wayne was in the store I took Ursa for a walk, her first trip to land in 5 days, so she was really excited. Eddie went off to ogle Billy Joel's beautiful, classic commuter boat, Vendetta, which was tied up at the end of the dock.

Wayne found a battery, smaller than ours, but he thought it would work. I went back to FLUKE when I saw Wayne heading in that direction. We had all used one of the side gates to get off the boat, so when I got back on with Ursa, I left it open for Eddie, whom I could hear out on the dock. I stepped inside to change my land shoes back to my boat shoes, leaving Ursa in the cockpit.

Since the wind was pushing us on the dock, the dock crew helped us get off the dock and we slowly pulled away. The OBMC has a very long face dock, and as we were slowly coasting by it Wayne asked where Ursa was since she wasn't up in the pilothouse, her usual place when underway. I looked out to see her running down the dock watching us pull away until she got to the end and just stared at us with a frantic “what about me?” look on her face. What we guess happened was that Ursa jumped off the boat when I went in to change my shoes and ran to the opposite end of the dock where Eddie wasn't looking, and he stepped aboard and closed the gate, not that she would have even considered following him back on the boat.

So, our second panic of the day ensued. Our first fear was that she would try to run off the dock area back up to land. Fortunately, the docks are set out in the bay by a long gangway, so a quick call to OBMC on the VHF asking them to keep her from leaving the dock was the first priority. We told them we would circle back to the face dock to pick her up.

By the time we had gotten back to the face dock another boat had already pulled into to our previous position. With the wind blowing quite a bit, and room limited, docking wasn't going to be as easy this time around. The girl who had captured Ursa saw this and suggested she bring Ursa out to us in the OBMC launch and do an on water transfer. We gratefully accepted her offer, and she made a skilled landing alongside FLUKE, and Ursa willingly jumped aboard.

Passing on the East River

Red Tape

We felt we still had enough time to traverse the East River, NY Harbor and get over to Horseshoe Cove in the Sandy Hook area before dark. However, the course was altered again when a Coast Guard vessel pulled up along side and told us that the north side of Roosevelt Island was closed for security reasons (this happens when there is an event at the United Nations building, and the Iranian president just happened to be in town, so we figured it was related to that), and we would have to pass on the south side. Since there is a low clearance bridge and narrow channel on that side we never go that way, but today we didn't have a choice. We found we could clear the bridge and just carefully watched the cluttered markers underneath and made way with no problem. It was interesting seeing the industrial side of the East River.

Keeping a Landmark

When we passed lower Manhattan there was a flurry of activity around a classic, elegant motoryacht filled with men wearing dark suits: security helicopter overhead, Coast Guard and NYC police boats, making sure no other vessels could get close to the motoryacht which headed up the north side of the East River. It was another interesting moment to this “exciting” day. Oh, it was also the first day we didn't have to wear sweatshirts!

Fast NYC Harbor Tour

Lower Manhattan on a Clear Day

Resting Giant

Seeing the Light

Traveling along the New Jersey coast is a challenge to trawler cruisers. It takes at least 15 hours to get from Sandy Hook to Cape May , the two logical places to stop, meaning in late Fall you have to leave and arrive in the dark. We don't like the idea of anchoring in Cape May, so we have tried different methods to avoid it. The only safe inlet for us to use would be Atlantic City, and we have also avoided going in there because of limited anchoring area and extremely high dockage rates.

Because sea conditions were so benign on Sept. 24, we decided we would go into Barnegat Inlet and check out an anchorage area we had read about in other cruising logs.

Bad Boating Day at Sandy Hook

Since the inlet had recently been dredged and properly marked, getting in was easy. However, we could clearly see the shoaled areas which, under high sea and outgoing tide, make this inlet dangerous even for those boaters with local knowledge and would be prohibitive for us under those conditions. Following the narrow, somewhat confusingly marked inner channel to the anchorage was accomplished without anguish even coming in at low tide. However, the “anchorage” has quite a few moorings, used by locals only, limiting the space to drop an anchor. Since it was only about 1300 we arrived ahead of other cruising boats, thankfully. Trying 2 different spots, we tried setting the Delta 3 times and then used the Super Max before we could even get any type of holding, taking about 1.5 hours for this task. When we pulled up the anchor, it was covered with stinking, sticky mud! Under calm conditions this situation was OK, but that's all I can say.

Barnegat Light

I was happy to make the 12 hour passage to Cape Henlopen on the east side of the entrance to the mouth of Delaware Bay. Seas were calm until we got to the mouth of the Bay where the seas of the ocean and bay merged creating confused, bumpy water. That's when a blue fish hit the trolling line, and we had to carefully watch the passages of the ocean going tankers and freighters entering and exiting the Delaware Bay. Everything always has to happen at once!

Cape Henlopen has two large breakwaters for a harbor of refuge and to help provide safe landing for the Cape May/Cape Henlopen ferry. Most cruising boats don't try this area because it is on the west side of the bay, and they elect to go into Cape May. It worked out fine for us though because it was easy to get into and out of and had good holding off the west side of the inner breakwater close to the ferry terminal. We wanted to check it out in case we decide to go offshore along the Virginia coast instead of having to go through the Chesapeake.

So, on Sept. 26 when we set anchor in the mouth of the Bohemia River, after transversing the C & D canal, we felt we were “home free”, i.e., we had made it to the Chesapeake and would be able to get to our Krogen rendezvous with time to spare. Gone were all the high pitched screeches from the ospreys we heard in July that had been nesting on every channel marker now to be replaced with the deep honking and swooshing wing sounds of the gigantic flocks of Canadian geese that were flying overhead. We breathed a sigh of relief with a contented feeling of good passages made, more things learned and another chapter of cruising about to begin.