July 1, 2010
Island Welcome
In the last posting I described the Baker's Bay area of Great Guana. Now that we moved 2 miles south, I want to talk about this area associated with the original settlement, and it's what we like best. See that inviting, quaint dock in the opening photo? That is more typical of what we have always thought of as this part of the island.
In our opinion, overall, Great Guana Cay has seen more change than any of these small Bahamian out islands that we visit regularly. Even in the Settlement Harbor area (old time Guana), one of the newer marina developments has taken off to the point of putting in a second dock to accommodate the multitude of transient boaters (many with large vessels) that like to include Guana Cay as a stop in their travels. There are only 150 “real” residents on the island, yet there are many modern vacation homes, and the marina and bar businesses bring workers from the other islands. A freight and passenger ferry service connects Guana to Marsh Harbor, bringing goods and people to the island with ease. However, you can still get a good feeling for the “old” ways with a walk along the original waterfront area.
It's Better Than Nothing
You will walk by the Post Office building, or room I should say. Hours are short, but everyone knows them and just learns to “work” with that time schedule. The FLUKE crew thinks it's time for the dying U.S. Postal Service to cut back it “services” to save money, such as having residential mail delivery only 3 days/week.
Everyone Loves Ice Cream
Our afternoon walk was destined to include a stop at Pirates Cove, where we were going to get ice cream, every boaters delight. We are always tentative about taking Ursa inside any building, but when I saw a bowl on the floor behind the counter, under the hot dog machine, with macaroni and cheese in, and around, it I knew Ursa would be welcome. Then Mini, the minpin puppy, showed up to see what all the activity was about and to try to make friends with Ursa (a bad idea!).
Through the coconut telegraph (VHF radio) we'd been hearing Pirates Cove advertising that they had banana splits. One day they were $5, the next day $6, and by the time Eddie sidled up to the counter to order his (with no price sign in sight), they were $7, and not even close to the size Eddie had been lusting for. The chocolate chip ice cream Wayne and I ordered turned out to really be some kind of cookie dough. It was still a nice treat.
The ice cream parlor was transformed into the potluck buffet for our evening dining enjoyment. All the delicious food people brought was put out on tables inside, Pirates Cove supplied dinner ware, and after you filled your plate you took it outside to one of the tables, all within easy reach of the outdoor tiki bar. We shared a table with a couple we had met down at Lynyard Cay and enjoyed hearing about their Washington state backgrounds and how they recently became sailing cruisers. Since we had given them an old cruising guide when we were at Lynyard, they wanted to treat us to a few delicious, but toxic rum punches. Eddie and I jumped on that offer right away.
After the pot luck, we didn't want to leave Guana without having one of the famous, but also toxic Guana Grabbers. They are served Grabbers (formerly the Guana Beach Resort) which was conveniently located where the dinghy was docked so we didn't have to go out of our way to get to the sunset beach bar. The Grabber is a pureed ice rum punch drink that is so cool and refreshing it is easy to have too many. In our case, now one was too many. Years ago, in our younger days with our previous boat, we were drinking Grabbers to a rather late hour. Wayne and I got tired, but Eddie said the night was still young for him and he took us back to the boat and went back to the bar for more Grabbers. Well, I awoke to the sound of our dinghy motor approaching the boat, but it didn't stop. I thought that was odd since we were the farthest boat out from shore, and I knew Eddie couldn't be giving anyone a ride. The dinghy motor got a bit fainter, but then I could hear it getting louder again. At least Eddie eventually found his way back that night!
It's Always Bright at Nippers
Nippers bar and restaurant has really helped draw crowds to Great Guana for many years. Their colorful establishment sits high on a dune with views of the beautiful beach and near shore reefs. They have a freshwater pool, cute gift shop, and outdoor tiki bar. Their Sunday pig roast is known throughout the Abacos. There is really something there for everyone.
Nippers Scenic Beachfront
Bar Hog
The locals do a fine job keeping the public areas clean and orderly. This guy can cool off whenever he needs to and doesn't have to worry about tide changes with that tall ladder!
Getting the Job Done
All the establishments have catchy island tunes to draw your attention and try to get you to stop in. However, you can find solitude with a walk on the beach or a visit to the quaint, island cemetery, located on an upland site, well above any high waters from storm surges.
Party's Over
However, after a fun time on Great Guana, we still had one more thing to do before we got in our dinghy to head back to FLUKE who was anchored in the harbor.
Leave the Sand Behind
(We have returned home to Vero Beach and are busy getting FLUKE ready to haul out. We have several blog posts almost ready to go since we haven't been near civilization for quite a while.)
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